CMT stands for Cut, Make, and Trim. It is the cost a factory charges to turn raw fabric into a finished garment — covering the labour to cut the fabric, assemble it, and attach all trim items like thread, zips, buttons, and labels.
CMT does not include the cost of fabric itself. That is sourced separately and paid for by the brand.
What CMT Includes
Cut — The factory cuts your fabric according to the pattern pieces in your tech pack. Skilled cutters stack multiple plies of fabric and cut efficiently to minimise waste. Cutting accuracy directly affects how the garment fits.
Make — This is the labour-intensive assembly stage: sewing the pieces together according to the construction notes in your spec sheet. For a basic T-shirt, this might take 12–15 minutes of machine time. For a structured jacket with linings and interfacing, it can take 45–90 minutes.
Trim — Everything attached to the garment that is not the main fabric: thread, buttons, zips, snap fasteners, elastic, labels (care label, brand label, size label), hang tags, poly bags, and carton boxes.
What CMT Does Not Include
- Main fabric and lining fabric
- Embellishments (embroidery, printing, beading) — these are quoted separately
- Washing, finishing treatments, or dyeing
- Freight and duties
A factory quoting CMT expects you to supply the fabric. If you want the factory to source fabric as well, the arrangement is called Full Package Production (FPP) and carries a higher per-unit price.
Typical CMT Rates in India (2025–2026)
Rates from vetted mid-tier factories in Tirupur and Noida. CMT drops sharply as quantity increases — the tables below show this. Commodity bulk rates at 3,000+ units from the cheapest factories are lower; those numbers are not what a brand placing a 200-unit order will see.
At 500+ units:
| Garment Type | CMT (USD/unit) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Basic T-shirt (knit) | $0.40 – $0.80 | Tirupur; ~15 min labour |
| Jersey dress | $1.20 – $2.20 | Seam count drives time |
| Woven shirt (basic) | $1.80 – $3.00 | Collar adds operations |
| Tailored trouser | $2.80 – $4.50 | Waistband, pockets, zip placket |
| Hoodie / sweatshirt | $1.80 – $3.00 | Hood, pouch pocket, cuffs |
| Structured jacket | $6.00 – $11.00 | Lining, interfacing |
| Activewear (basic) | $1.00 – $2.00 | Technical machines required |
At 100–299 units (small-run premium applies):
| Garment Type | CMT (USD/unit) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Basic T-shirt (knit) | $0.80 – $1.50 | Setup cost spread over fewer units |
| Jersey dress | $2.00 – $3.50 | |
| Woven shirt (basic) | $2.80 – $4.50 | |
| Tailored trouser | $4.50 – $7.00 | |
| Hoodie / sweatshirt | $2.50 – $4.00 | |
| Structured jacket | $9.00 – $16.00 | |
| Activewear (basic) | $1.80 – $3.00 |
These are CMT-only. Add fabric, trims, and freight for landed cost. For reference: a Classic Relaxed Hoodie at 100 units from Tirupur runs approximately $5.80/unit for fabric + trims + CMT combined, landing at ~$9.61 all-in with air freight and duties included.
What Drives the CMT Rate
Seam count and construction complexity — Every additional seam adds machine time. A dress with decorative topstitching, pleats, and a zip placket takes longer than a straight-column dress. Factories quote based on the number of operations.
Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ) — Lower MOQs mean the factory cannot amortise setup time (marker making, machine adjustment) across many units. Expect a 15–30% premium on orders under 100 units versus orders of 500+.
Factory tier — A factory with ISO certification, modern machinery, and a compliance audit will charge more than an unvetted workshop. The premium is usually worth it: fewer reworks, consistent quality, on-time delivery.
Fabric weight and technical requirements — Heavyweight denim or multi-layer technical fabrics require industrial machines, slower feed rates, and more breakage of needles and thread. This is factored into the rate.
Trims — If you are sourcing your own trims and shipping them to the factory, the CMT rate is lower. If the factory is sourcing trims on your behalf, expect a margin added.
How to Get an Accurate CMT Quote
To get a quote you can actually rely on, you need to send the factory:
- A complete tech pack — with detailed measurements, construction notes, and all seam specifications
- Fabric specification — weight (GSM), composition, and whether it is stretch or woven
- Trim list — every component, with specifications
- Order quantity — by style, colour, and size breakdown
- Target delivery date — affects whether they can fit your order into their schedule
A quote given without a tech pack is a rough estimate. The price will change when the factory sees the full spec. Always negotiate after sending the tech pack.
CMT vs FOB vs Full Package
| Arrangement | Who Sources Fabric | Who Sources Trims | What You Pay |
|---|---|---|---|
| CMT | Brand | Brand | Labour only |
| CMT + Trims | Brand | Factory | Labour + trim margin |
| Full Package (FPP) | Factory | Factory | All-in per-unit price |
| FOB | Factory | Factory | Delivered to port |
Most emerging brands start with Full Package to reduce complexity, then move to CMT once they know their materials and have supplier relationships.
CMT and Your Total Production Cost
A complete cost-per-unit calculation looks like this:
The example below is for a woven shirt at 300 units from Tirupur:
Fabric cost (per unit) $3.80 (cotton poplin, ~1.6m)
Trim cost (per unit) $0.65 (buttons, thread, labels)
CMT $2.20 (woven shirt, 300 units)
Lab dip / testing $0.15
Freight (sea, per unit) $0.55
Duties (8%) $0.59
──────────────────────────────
Total landed cost $7.94
Working backward: a $7.94 landed cost at a 5× multiplier gives a $39.70 retail price. Most fashion brands target a 4–6× multiplier on landed cost. Use the lower end (4×) for basics competing on price; 6× or higher for differentiated or premium products.
Questions to Ask a Factory About CMT
Before agreeing to a rate, ask:
- What is included in your CMT quote? (Some factories exclude finishing and ironing)
- What is your minimum order quantity for this CMT rate?
- Do you charge extra for lower quantities, and what is that rate?
- Is thread included in CMT or quoted separately?
- How do you handle reworks — are they charged at CMT rate?
- What is your lead time from fabric delivery to shipment?
A factory that answers these clearly and in writing is a factory worth working with.
Greige connects emerging fashion brands with vetted Indian manufacturers offering transparent CMT pricing. Book a free sourcing call to get actual quotes for your product.